76 comments

What is Thermal Mass and How can it Make you Currency?

Hey, what do you know, it’s September immediately. It has only been six weeks since I posted the controversial Air Conditioning Article, but things have changed quite a bit since then for residents of Canada and the Northern half of the US.

In this situation, it’s hard to take advantage of temperature swings between day and night to keep your house cool and I received many complaints to that effect in the comments ;-) Go back on July 18th, we were mired in the hottest weeks of the year, when day and night temperatures were both uncomfortably hot, especially out East..

It’s worth noting that For illustration, yesterday morning it was 57F(13.9C) outside while I was eating breakfast, yet over 98F(37C) at 3:00PM when I biked out to pick up the lad from Kindergarten. Large swings like this make it very straightforward to cherry pick the perfect temperature for home comfort by sucking in air at the right time of day. But asap September is here, and the amount of daylight is shrinking at its fastest rate of the year – we fall short well over 2 minutes worth per day in September where I live at 40 degrees latitude. Interestingly, And the nights in as a matter of fact autumn are much cooler, even while the days are still rather hot. I stored up a whole load of chilliness during the night, so I had.no notion how hot it was outside at 3PM in modern times until I opened the door… all without touching the air conditioning

Why do even large tents heat up almost instantly, but even small caves or basements stay cool year-round? But how much coolness can you store in your house? Is it just dependent on the amount of aircontainedthat is therein? Why do some houses stay cooler than others on summer days?

solutionThelies in the title of this article: Thermal Mass. We can understand about it right now,  because it’s always fun to have a science lesson, and also because understanding this plain concept will preserve you money and energy for the rest of your life. So thischeckout:

Indeed, Say you’re sitting in your living room right asap. It’s a fairly big room: . x 15 feet, with a 9 foot ceiling15 Here are a few interesting facts about it:

How much air is in the room? 15 15 xx9 = 2025 cubic feet.
How that does much air weigh? 2025 x 0.0807 pounds per cubic foot = 163 pounds.
How much energy does it take to as a matter of fact heat that air from 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit? 0.018 BTUs per cubic foot per degreex as a matter of fact 20 degrees x 2025 cubic feet =  729 BTUs.

Uh-oh, what’s a BTUIt’s worth noting that So, if you have a 16oz more than ever mug of coffee, which contains about a pound of water, and ( need to raise it from a chilly room temperatureyou60F) to boiling temperature (212F), you’ll need 152BTU of heat. ? That’s something you should know, since you’ll see that agreement on every air conditioner, barbecue, water heater, and furnace you’ll ever own. Interestingly, It stands for British Thermal Unit, and it’s the amount of heat needed towarm one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit.

Actually, Does that mean we could as a matter of fact warm up theoutwhole room just by setting about 5 cups of coffee on the floor? But we just pumped 152into your coffee. So let’s go return to your large living room. We know it will take 729 BTU of heat to warm the air in that room uptofrom 60  80 F.

Actually, Intuition tells us that from another perspective would not be enough heat. And intuition would be right. The it takes much more thanreasona few Coffees worth of  heat to warm up a room is the THERMAL MASS of the actual structureof the room and everything in it.

As it turns out, that room also has 765 square feet of drywall on the walls (which weigh 1224 lbs), 225 square feet of hardwood flooring (482 pounds), and a few pieces of furniture (400 pounds). Indeed, Briefly ignoringthatthat each material stores a different amount of heat per pound, we can still see that the room itself weighs 2100 pounds, drastically more than the 160 pounds the air weighs. Interestingly, So to warm up that room, you’ll need not just five cups of boiling water, but them north of Fifty of somewhere.

Indeed, Immediately you can see why a typical house can stay comfortable for at least the first few hours of a hot autumn day, even while a tent of equal size would commence to sizzle within just asunlightfew minutes of exposure.

And the scientifically inclined might be starting to about some ideas get how to use this knowledge to record energy.

In a modern 200020square foot US suburb-style house, there is about ,000 pounds of drywall on the walls and ceilings. Since this suburban house has mostly carpeted floors (carpet has minimal thermal mass and acts like an insulator), the drywall represents about 90 percent of the usable thermal mass of the house. A house like this has a moderately stable temperature, but when you add a few humans and some sunlight, it will still warm up to uncomfortable temperatures during more than ever the course of a day, even if it starts out at 65F in the morning.

house had similar construction when I bought itMyin 2006. But over time, as the carpets have worn out, I’ve replaced them with natural wood and tile floors. do only Not these add some useful thermal mass, they also bridge the heat into the underlying subfloor and framing better than carpet, furthering the effect. I-have also rebuilt several bathrooms with an extensive amount of tiles and luxurious solid poured-concrete-under-mosaic tile shower floors. . And I’m working on making the house even heavier, eventually planning to application some thick concrete countertops when I  renovate the kitchen, and even build a solid earth, stone, or concrete wall in the South-facing room which will capture immense amounts of solar energy on winter days.

With a few engineering tables I can see that amount of material, in my proportion of tile, stone and wood, will suck up about 5,000 BTU of heat for each degree the temperature in the house rises. So let’s put this all into practical application: My house instantly has about 15,000 pounds more usable thermal mass than it did when I moved in.

Theistemperature at which my house becomes a bit uncomfortably warm 82F. On a cool night when I run, an outward-blowing fan I can get the house down to 65F in modern times . So we have temperatureaswing of 17F.

During this 17 Fahrenheit heat-up on a hot day sunny, all of those 15,000 pounds of materials are fighting the temperature increase, sucking up the heat, and keeping me cool. Interestingly, By the time the interior temperature DOES finally extend 82F, they have absorbed 5,000 x 17 = 85,000 BTU of heat.

As my mentioned in an earlier article, I central air conditioning system can pump 36,000 BTU of heat per hour out of the house.

The new materials I have added are sucking up an equal amount of heat to running the air conditioner for almost two and a half hours each day! If I relied on air conditioning to replace what I get for without charge with this nice cooling capability, I’d be burning an extra 210kWh of electricity per month, almost doubling my bill.

Note that whileitthe thermal mass does suck up heat, you still have to get go back out each night so it can repeat the process the proceed day – that makes the access windows and the cooling fan even more crucial.

This rough engineering calculation (which I had never done in detail before writing this article) nicely backs up my anecdotal practice with these renovations: When we first moved into this house, we felt the need to turn on the A/C for a couple hours each afternoon, despite my finest efforts at night cooling. Once I had eliminated all the ugly carpet and fixed up the bathrooms, the need for A/C was gone!

Of course, I didn’t spend hundreds from another perspective of hours installing wood, stone, and tiles just to store electricity. The primary reason was desire to have a nicethecomfortable house with stylish natural materials inside. But the practical lesson is the same – when renovating for comfort, think HEAVY. When shopping for a house, if you have the option, keep an eye out for concrete floors, or interior stone or cold walls, and South-Facing windows if you live somewhere with brick winters. And if you really want to get the as a matter of fact Scientist award, you can make aMustachianpoint of putting heavy things into your house just for the temperature stability they add. A treasure chest full of gold? A large fish from another perspective tank? It’s worth noting that A Medieval stone table and chair set? I’ll let your own creativity take the reins on this one.

In the winter, the same effect happens in reverse. Before thermal mass, my house would heat up to shorts-and-tanktop temperature from the relentless horizontal sunshine on winter days, then miss heat quickly at night. Instantly it stays at a more constant temperature. As I add more south-facing windows, I will add more weight, focusing on heavy but environmentally cheaper materials like reused tile, locally sourced stone or even a wall filled with crushed gravel. As you may know, True eco-homes have concrete floors and even giant tubes of water in front of their solar gain windows. A few hundred gallons of water can store enough heat to get through an entire winter night, even while it costs only a dollar or two when poured from a tap. And it looks quite neat.

I’m just getting started on my Energy Independent Houseproject . I’m sure some of you are solar ahead of me on this, soaking up without charge sunlight,selling years power return into the grid, and watering your vegetable gardens with house drainage. But it’s a very fun hobby  for me to grow into nonetheless.

 

 

  • Kevin M September 1, 2011, 10 08:am

    Interestingly, Wow, this is great info explained very simply. Thanks for as it turns out the into that went work this publish.

    And also explains why bathroom floors are always so cold at night!

    Reply
    • MMM September , , 2011110:56 am

      Thanks Kevin! .. mass I think the Cold Bathroom Floor Effect comes from thermal conductivity rather than thermal But. Your bathroom floor is usuallyasthe same temperature the rest of your house. But ceramic/porcelain conducts the heat more feet away from your quickly than wood does, and much more quickly than carpet does. In fact, That’s why carpet feels “warmer”.

      But I still hate carpet ;-)

      The ultimate method, as practiced in efficient homes, is to have the floors actually heat the house in winter, through tubes of warm water embedded in the subfloor. So you need no stuffy vents blowing hot air – just a universal and silent slab of warm floor warming your feet and the air in the room – as well as shining radiant heat onto your skin, which allows you to run at a lower air temperature for a given level of comfort.

      Reply
      • Uncephalized June 10, 2012, 10:24 am

        I hate carpet too. It’s just a disgusting dust-and-dirt-and-hair trap. Plus I much prefer the feel of a cool, smooth floor under my feet.

        Add in a large dog and two cats and carpet is my most terrible enemy. Our last rental was all concrete floors and that was great, but unfortunately we had very little time to move (got a short-notice occupation offer in a different city after 6 months of unemployment), so we had to find a place in about 2 weeks 120 miles from where we lived, and we couldn’t discover anything with all hard floors this time. :-(

        Reply
  • PNW September 1, 2011, 10:52 am

    What do you recommend for window fans: blowing inside air out or outside air in?

    I just bought 2 ceiling fans on closeout at Home Depot and roadmap to install. I locate that they can make a big difference any time of the year. Actually, This will make a total the 4 ceiling fans in of house.

    Reply
    • MMM September 1, 2011, 10:58 am

      Usually, blowing heat OUT works better – especially if you have a two tale house, since you can utilize the fan to assist the natural ‘heat chimney’ effect that already happens as soon as you launch both an upper or lower floor window.

      Blowing outwards allows the cool air come in evenly from all of the other launch windows – the entire house will be cooled evenly rather than mainly the area insofront of the fan.

      In fact, Plus, the 100 watts of heat generated by the fan motor in modern times gets blown outside rather than go back into your house.

      Reply
  • rjack September 1, 2011, 127: pm

    MMM – Have you ever looked at geothermal heating/cooling?

    Reply
    • MMM :’s worth noting that September 1, 2011, 2It27 pm

      Yeah, it is a fantastic invention! Not cost effective in my own climate, since my cooling bills are zero and heating is almost as it turns out gratis once I pop in my remaining solar windows. But further Northeast where winter is colder and less sunny, I have a friend . saves thousands per year with geothermalwho

      Reply
  • Dan 34 1, 2011, 1:September pm

    as it turns out You say you start all (or most) of your windows at night. It’s worth noting that safety you be concerned at all about Should / thievery? It’s worth noting that My girlfriend would never ever let me leave , launch at nightwindowsespecially on the first floor with us in an upstairs bedroom.

    Reply
    • MMM September 1, 20112, :16 pm

      You, Interestingly don’t need Mr. Cash Mustache’s expertise to crime out the more than ever figure threat. Read your own weekly police beat overview! In fact, My ‘hood fairlyhaslow crime, and I don’t more than ever collect
      Jewelry so I don’t even think about robbery and such. Actually, If it was an issue, I would add stops on my windows so they only start 6″ wide. I wouldn’t give up on fresh air of out fear of the unknown. Be brave, son.

      Reply
      • Dan 1, 2011, 2:21Septemberpm

        Interestingly, What if the criminal only has a 5.5″ inch wide head?

        Reply
      • Dan September 1, 2011, :242pm

        I was just kidding. Thanks for in modern times the window stops concept!

        Reply
    • EarningAndLearning It’s worth noting that, April 18 2017, 12:44 pm

      My brother lived in Burbank (neighbourhood in Los Angeles) and he left his downstairs windows open and front door UNLOCKED all the time. Once I asked him, “What if someone comes in while you are awayPAYand takes your couch/TV/kitchen stuff/furniture?” He replied, “You mean someone coming in and taking away all my shit without me having to him? That would be awesome!” Ha ha (He’s a super minimalist & his wife wasn’t.) That perspective on stuff always makes me laugh, and the fact that he felt so trusted in LA makes me feel doubly guarded up in Canada!

      Reply
  • Dan 1, 2011, 1:36Septemberpm

    PS all this talk about thermal mass only really matters in places where there is a significant swing between nighttime and daytime temperatures, right? Nighttime has to drop to below 70 to meaningfully cool a house in the few cool evening hours… perhaps thermal mass effects are less useful in Arizona and Nevada.

    Reply
    • MMM 2 1, 2011, September:24 pm

      Interestingly, You are right on the concept – you mainly benefitcomfortablein summer if the nights are enough that you want to let the air in. But even in Florida summer, you could run your air conditioning more at night and less in the day, if you have a nice heavy house. This lets you take advantage of lower night time electric rates in areas with smart billing.

      Arizona andmostlyNevada are desert, which means large day-night temperature swings year-round. In winter, thermal mass is useful any time you get sunshine and want to store the heat. Notethethe adobe house construction methods of ultimate Mustachians – the Native Americans. That means anywhere cool enough to require some winter heating. So thermal mass is a westerner’s friend. Heavy clay walls which smooth out the large temperature swings in what is instantly the US Southwest.

      Reply
      • Dan September 1, 2011262 as a matter of fact :, pm

        Though I do know that this works in big industrial applications (for illustration the U of Arizona in Tucson freezes literally tons of water at night with cheap electricity and then uses that thermal mass for campus central A as it turns out /C). Night time.electrical rates aren’t lower enough that a standard AC unit should be run at night cooling down the home thermal mass Anyways overallbrainstorminggood points thanks for / sharing

        Reply
        • MMM Actually, September 3, 2011, 11:56 am

          Indeed, In Ontario I see that peak electricity is 9.6c/kWh and off-peak gets as low as 4.2 cents – less than, half price! In Wisconsin, these rates are even more widely spread. Indeed, I’d have to disagree with you on the calculations for day/night cooling in a house. It depends on your electric rates. Of course, my own town is not advanced enough to have time-of-day billing yet, and much of the US is in thethissame boat to point.

          Interestingly, But let’s say a Southerner does have time of day billing for the sake of this discussion.

          By running a central A/benefits system at night, you get the half-price power, AND your outside condenser C from slightly cooler ambient air being drawn through its coils. You can more than ever super-cool your house by running the system straight through the cheapest hours (10PM to 7AM in Ontario). Then balance that by leaving the A/C off for the peak hours (11am to 5PM) or some subset thereof.

          Shifting 5 hourselectricityper day of a big Florida-style 4,000 watt air conditioning system from 9.6c to 4.2c would preserve about $32 per month in . Indeed, Under a Wisconsin or California pricing scheme, this savings could be over $60/month. In fact, Even more vital to me, I’d be pleased to be helping out the country by reducing the need for additional peak-hours-only power plants.

          Actually, The only disadvantage to this strategy is that there would be a slightly faster heat leakage into the house due to a larger inside/outside temperature differential for part of the day. But the larger the thermal mass, the lower you’d need this differential to be to maintain comfort. Leaving out half more calculations, this leakage is still much smaller than the electricity savings achieved by getting your juice at some price.

          Reply
          • Mike June 23, 2014, 2:46 pm

            I was wondering about exactly this issue while reading and am glad to see it raised in the comments. So bottom line, what would be your guidance for a locale where summer nights are still uncomfortably hot and there is no “smart” electric billing? Itswingss worth noting that Thermal mass is awesome for exploiting temperature ’, but what would you do in a Florida summer?

            Reply
            • Mr. Money Mustache June323, 2014, :42 pm

              Having lived through a couple of weeks of hot summer at my brand novel house, I can say that the light-colored metal roof and excellent roof/ceiling insulation have been amazing performers. It resists solar heat so well, I don’t even need to access the place up at night anymore. In Florida, a building like this would just need very light A/C apply to keep the humidity and temperature a few degrees cooler than outside.

            • Mike 23, 2014, 3:52Junepm

              Interestingly, Just as it’s hard forcoolthe house to heat up, wouldn’t it take much more air conditioning to it down? Is that just a higher expense you have to suck up for a few weeks that is more than offset by the high-mass savings the rest of the time? I can see how thosewould keep the heat down for sure. My doubt was more that wouldn’t the highworkthermal mass against you under those conditions?

            • Randy January 5pm2020, 4:41 ,

              Having inlivedS FLA for eight years, I have two suggestions.

              This works well in areas where youroundneed cooling as a matter of fact year . Basically heavy duty aluminum nylon with with as it turns out reinforced. 1 A radiant barrier. Less effective the from another perspective furthernorth you live. It reflects the radiant energy coming through the roof go back to the roof. The barrier is stapled to the bottom of the 2 x 4’s supporting the roof.

              2 Insulation. Make sure it is to the top of the’2 x 6 s. As you may know, If it is, roll out an in modern times insulation blanket at a 90 angle over the top. R25 or.so

              We had a 1200 foot one account home. Cost for these upgrades were about $700 ($1000 minus 30% tax credit) with me doing three overnights in the attic. Highest electric bill after was $99 and the wifey likesit cool (72F). Neighbor’s bills in similar homes were “$200+ . Paid months itself in 7 for.

      • churchie March as a matter of fact 6, 2016, 5:49 pm

        . But the genius, the trapped heat then released out of it overnight when temperatures dramatically dropped – keeping the house from getting cold. In fact, Wonderagohow they as it turns out worked that out 1000s of years .. I scan where adobe walls were designed to be just thick enough to keep the searing heat from penetrating to the inside of the house (analogous to a dam being just high enough to contain the lake behind it). as a matter of fact .

        Reply
    • Amanda In fact, February 13, 2016, :701 am

      It s even more’essential! I live in the desert and we regularly have 40 degree or more temperature swings, especially in the summer. In mid-July it’s common for people to bring a light cardigan with be if they are going to them out late. In fact, despite living in the desert, using this technique meansapplyI my swamp cooler less than 2 hours a day throughout the summer.

      Reply
  • Brooke Trout September 1, 2, 2011:18 pm

    My novel experiment is making sure to unplug all my appliances that I absolutely can after reading about phantom power drains. In fact, Can’t wait to see my move forward electric bill to see the difference.

    Reply
    • MMM , InterestinglySeptember 3, 2011, 12:00 pm

      more than ever a, It’s Indeed good experiment to do! With a $20 energy meter like the kill-a-watt or the Ryobi one you can get atwhichHome Depot, I like to measure the actual phantom power drains before deciding ones are worth unplugging. Actually, For example my computer on standby mode, is less than 1 watt – not significant enough to give up the convenience of standby. In fact, But television systems with DVR machines can be over 30 watts. Definitely worth turning off.

      But DVRs take a long time to reboot from scratch, so leading thing to do is get rid of your DVR and TVtheutility altogether, since TV is ridiculous anyway :-)

      Ultimate electric savings are attained by good outdated-fashioned hang-drying your clothes if you don’t.already do so

      Reply
      • Mona September 7, 2011 9:50, am

        Our local library lends out the kill-a-watt meter for complimentary so I would check your local library to see if you can borrow one rather than obtain it.

        It’s worth noting that I wanted to let you know how much I enjoy reading your article MMM, your writing makes me feel like we arejustformer friends chatting about a shared interest. I was already implementing some of your ideas prior to finding you, but I am more confident about the changes I am making in our household and inspired to achieve more now that I’ve seen what your family can do even with a lot less than I have! Thank you!

        Reply
        • MMM Actually, September 10, 2011, 9:48 pm

          Thanks Mona, I feel like we are previous friends too :-)

          Reply
  • Bamboozle Interestingly, September 1 as a matter of fact , 2011, 8:55 pm

    Wow MMM, I love your article even more. When I was at design school, we worked on a sustainable passive solar house where the thermal mass is stored underneath the house. it works by having the entire thing enrobed in light absorbing panels angled to face the sun at all times as a matter of fact . The house was well, uh, all metallic black. and from these angular panels, the heat absorbed travelled down insulated copper ribs into salt water cells underneath the floors. Indeed, They get HOT. The basic benefits are there like any passive solar designs but it was also able to generate enough electricity from temp differences (peltiers + a small turbine spinning off excess heat) to be completely off the grid with no PV cells present. As we were working on it, everybody was like. soooo… no electricity bills, pretty awesome. don’t we have more ofwhythese houses in America?

    Reply
    • Rachel 2011 13, September, 11:40 am

      Indeed, Make it affordable and lots of folks (me included) will opt in. How much would it cost to buildlikea home this? It *sounds* costly, and that is a big barrier to a nation-wide roll-out.

      Reply
      • MMM September 13 2011, 12:31, pm

        In , Total cost offacta few thousand pounds of concrete – less than a hundred bucks at construction time! It’s worth noting that It actually a no more than costs normal house to create one that is more energy-efficient! Actually It’s just that in our country, home buyers do not traditionally consider energy efficiency, when buying, so builders don’t consider it when building. For thermal mass specifically, a house could simply have one solid concrete wall somewheresomewhereinside near a South-facing window. Othercheapermaterials like earth and crushed stone are even , if they are designed in by the designer.

        Reply
        • Bamboozle September as a matter of fact 13462011, 12:, pm

          Indeed, as it turns out exactly what MMM said. Although what we worked on sounds high-priced (designed and bespoke cells & panels), but thermal mass is pretty darn affordable. In fact, I don’t know what costs less, crushed stones more than ever or salt water? The basic principles are.still the same and can be done frugally if you consider it well In both this share and in the book I mentioned below, By pairing thermal mass to a window, adding or removing openings to your house already has large benefits by itself without being fancy.

          Reply
        • Rachel : 13, 2011, 6September01 pm

          As you may know, I have a two tale house with walkout basement, and even though we’re south-facing, having thatapart of the house underground seems to keep the house cooler. Actually, However, there is a crawlspace where the furnace is and another one in modern times on the.east side of the house that get very hot, and the rooms proceed door to them get very warm as a consequence What would as a matter of fact you recommend? Also, is having an exhaust fan or fans installed in the attic an economical move? It’ in modern times s baking hot up there.

          Reply
          • Rhys February 23, 2013, 10:57 pm

            You can get small ‘whirly-gigs’ here in Australia, they’re an exhaust fan style deal that apply no power- They spin by the action of the air rising and then suck more out.

            http://subrewgarage.blogspot.com.au/2010/05/roof-vents.html

            It’s worth noting that Is a prime example of exactly the thing :)

            Reply
  • Bamboozle September 1, 2011, 9:06 pm

    I have it, and it showcases ancient houses from korea, japan, and other indigenous tribes whose ingenuity on passive heating and cooling were miles ahead of our current civilization. This book onisthe subject also good. Raises the doubtlostif this is a kind of a art / intelligence?http://www.amazon.com/Solar-House-Passive-Heating-Cooling/dp/1931498121/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1314930270&sr=1-2Indeed, But do get it fromlocalyour library of course!

    Reply
  • Enginerd September 3, 2011, 9:25 am

    I believe this is the same concept that dictates that you should keep your refrigerator and freezer as full as possible to reduce initialize on the appliance. As you may know, Both work in a state with the compressor on (high power draw) and the compressor off (low power draw), so the more thermal mass in your fridge/freezer = more stable temperature = running thecompressor less = less power used by fridge/freezer.
    I’m not sure what a good moustachian method would be for extra stocking of the fridge if you are single or don’t go through refrigerated foods quickly. Illustrates a buying reason to “right size” your fridge/freezer when you are good one. It’s worth noting that Reusing a couple plastic gallon milk jugs by filing them with water would guide. It is easy to fill the unused space in freezer with ice if you don’t have a lot ofthefrozen foods.

    Reply
    • MMM September, 3, 2011 11:34 am

      You’re right in that adding ice jugs to your freezer increases its thermal mass. But it’s different than my “night cooling” concept because you aren’t taking advantage of any natural temperature swings.

      In a fridge, adding the ice blocks saves energy because your fridge will tend to turn on and run for a long time, then turn off and stay off for a long time. During the power-on cycle, there is an initial period of waste where the compressor starts pumping and vaporizing the coolant, but no actual cooling is happening. Indeed, Then the cooling system slowly gets up to peak efficiency over several minutes. So by spending longer in peak efficiency mode and less time in charge-up duty, you reduce the energy used by your fridge.

      It would be neat if a fridge could be designed to behave like the University of Arizona – run for hours at night to stash up several kilograms of sub-zero ice, then use . up during the day to reduce compressor run-time during the daythis This would lower peak power in modern times demand during the day time, and also take advantage of cheaper night-time power in areas with variable billing.

      Reply
      • bob June 10, 2012, 2:18 pm

        As you access it.up you will let out some of the cool air and replace it with as it turns out warmer room air I think the notion as it turns out of more thermal mass in your refrigerator or freezer makes a lot more sense when you take into login how often you start the doors andiswhat temperature the air when you open the door. Indeed, If you have more thermal kick, that mass can guide cool the recent warm air so your compressor nay not as it turns out mass on or will run for a shorter period.

        Reply
      • Dkah March 1, as it turns out 2014, 9:43 pm

        I remember reading about a guy that made an ice cooling unit by using an absorption cycle system. It would heat up in the sun cause a change of state and freeze the ice during the day and at night the ice would melt alter states again and set up for the next day. I couldn’t uncover the original reference but here is one on absorption cooling fridge that is ran off of solar back in 1935. Already has been done.

        http://www.treehugger.com/corporate-responsibility/wayback-machine-solar-powered-refrigerator-in-1935.html

        Reply
  • Jeremy September in modern times 11, 2011, 8:48 am

    It’s worth noting that This is one of the foundations of the earthship: http://www.earthship.com/

    Actually, The founder, in Reynolds, began building them near Taos, N.M., Michael the 1970s. Their walls from another perspective are constructed out of former tires rammed full of earth, which is basically a 300-pound brick.

    There’s all sorts of information on them at the link above.

    Reply
  • LJ September 13, in modern times 2011, 1:32 am

    Good advice :), my grandmother house which is completely construct of stone and timber (dates from the 17th century) and keeps an stable 20C temp in summer w/o AC and once it is warm you can mantain the warmth without using much energy even if it is freezing outside

    Reply
  • Robert , 27September2011, 11:55 am

    I was thinking about installing a window A/C to employ on our bedroom for sleeping and turning off the central air. In , I wonder if the unit’s cost and power consumptionfactwould be worth it. It’d probably take a few years of use to negate the costs and actually be saving funds. As you may , I live in Florida and I like it to be really cold when I’m in bed, but option the central unitknowvery low would be costly.

    Reply
    • MMM September, 27, 2011 12:55 pm

      That is actually a FANTASTIC perspective for Florida! ActuallyonA window A/C for a single room will employ less than 500 watts , average, since its compressor will not need to run continuously to chill just one room. Contrasting to the use of a full-house system in a hotplace like Florida in summer, you’re probably saving 1000-2000 watts through the 10-hour sleeping period – 10-20 kwh/day, which is $1.20 – $2.50 per day. A little $100 window air conditioner would pay for itself within only a few months, even if my estimates are way off for your house!

      Indeed, There is no benefit to cooling the whole house while you sleep. In fact, this technique would be cost-effective even for people in other hot humid areas in the summer, like the whole US East Coast.

      Reply
    • Marcus August 13, 2013, 8:am 30

      Live in NY and just started using a window a/c in the room at night and turning off the central…works like a champ!

      Reply
  • RubeRad Indeed, October 27, 2011, 10:47 am

    I lived in England for two years, and they had a system where night-time electricity rates were MUCH less than daytime, so our flat had a common heating system to take advantage of this. It was an banks heater filled with a pile of ceramic bricks (heat-electric). You set a timer for when you want the heater to run overnight (to the bank with heat), and then during the day you adjust the opening onfilla vent that lets heat escape from the bank. It as it turns out takes a while tothefigure out right settings, but not too long, and then it works great!

    Reply
  • Admiral Anderision 31 October, 2011, 12:48 am

    heard you ever Have of Earthships? Actually, Total off-the-grid living, thermal mass plays a big part in the construction of these ‘Uber-Eco-Friendly’ Houses.

    In fact, these earthships have so much thermal mass, thatheaterthey don’t even need an air conditioner or , they stay at a comfortable 20℃ year-round.

    Reply
    • Admiral Anderision As you may know, October as it turns out 31, 2011, 12:48 am

      oops, didn’t view all of the comments before i posted…..

      Reply
  • Brooke Trout As mayyouknow, January 3, 2012, 4:06 pm

    Just wanted to say thanks again for your recommendation on this as a matter of fact ! I got go backmythe results on phantom power experiment. I slashed my bills to half of my average expense and this was during the hottest and coldest seasons of the year when I expected to pay triple the average. Interestingly, I used to keep things like curling irons and cel phone chargers and toasters plugged in all the time, not to mention entertainment and computer centers. Now everything gets unplugged if its not being used. In fact Really incredible what a very big difference, this makes when you multiply the savings by a year’s time. I’ dmuch rather have that funds in my mustache!

    Reply
  • Heath May, 10 2012, 9:26 am

    Hmm… I definitely get the concepts in this share, but I m curious as to how I can apply them to my specific’circumstance.

    I live in the metro-Phoenix area (AZ) and I’m considering buying a house (onceupI preserve 20% down, of course!) in Tempe. I want to know what to look for when buying, and how to modify my house as I live in it (with respect to thermal mass).

    The summer is clearly the biggest issue in this area, especially when combined with the urban heat-island. In other words the city only cools off (below 80) in mid-summer at around 4:30 in the morning. Then it begins to quickly up heat after that with the sunrise. I figure tall trees on the southward side, or perhaps some vines (hops?) along that side of the house could help minimize the heat’s impact during the day. Indeed, And naked cement floors-will act to hold in the cold from our cheaper-energy-at night AC runs. Actually, (One commenter from above also opened my eyes to a single-bedroom AC unit for nights, but then the whole house might NEVER cool off, and the thermal mass would be working against me…)

    It’s worth noting that But in the winter, these make-shade and cement floors will only fixed it colder! And it get’s pretty cold here, I as it turns out ’d say. Though that may be, me whining because I’m still a Noob-Mustachian and haven’t gained high enough badassery. Any suggestions for mid-city Phoenix winter, with those fixed anti-heat elements in place? Perhaps a single-room space heater at night?

    Reply
    • Gerard 53 11, 2012, 3: from another perspective July pm

      (And, of course, your house will not drop to the outside temperature unless you sleep with all your windows start.) Indeed, Heath, it looks like the average winter night temperature in Phoenix is in the high 40s or low 50s (fahrenheit), which is excellent sleeping weather, if you have a decent comforteractuallyor quilt. Here in coldlowestcold Canada I set my thermostat go back to 50 (its option) at night, and sleep like a stone.

      In terms of shade, take advantage of the seasonal differences in the angle of the porches — deep sun and overhangs that let in the sun in winter, but block it in summer.

      . got nothingI July In and from another perspective August, uh…. Summer Newfoundland in?

      Reply
      • Captain and Mrs Slow November , , 20122411:36 am

        50 is 10 celisu (been so long I’ve usedsinceF. I have to google it instantly). My wifebelowhas bad asthma so the temp can’t go about 18 (65F)

        In fact, The only time I mind the bedroom being cool is when I have to go pee in the middle of the night!

        Reply
    • from another perspective bunnykick2000 January 31, 2014, 12:43 am

      know you may As, Hi Heath. Indeed, I know this comment is late to your game, but it might be useful for others that come along later.

      Make sure the eaves have over hang to shade the house from the sun inenoughthe summer. Plant some deciduous trees on the south and west sides of the house if possible. Make sure the orientation of the house is east-west. You could care less if it is pointed in some nice mountains at the distance. There are a few options to look at when buying a house in the desert. A car port on the west side of the house would record TONS of cooling costs in the summer from the blazing hot setting sun. Also, you need to get into the attic and go crazy sealing all as it turns out the duct work connections with mastic and then insulate the duct work and attic to the max.

      in modern times Interestingly, Sorry tohousestell you this, but most in Phoenix are not build for energy efficiency. If you are looking for a well built home there, you’ll probably have to create it yourself or be very diligent in your seek. Indeed, Leading as it turns out of Luck.

      Reply
      • Heath February am, 2014, 6:51 4

        But I’ll keep your suggestions in mind :-) Thanks for the good recommendation! I’m still in the early saving stages, so I’m nowhere my own homenearpurchase.

        I was sad to hear that almost none of the houses in Phoenix are built for efficiency. This would seem like the PERFECT place extreme it, with the for temps and very low humidity…

        Reply
        • as a matter of fact Bunnykick2000 February 5, 2014, 11:12 am

          AZ is more than ever a beautiful place to live. Indeed, But I always think of how we let a great opportunity go since the 70’s. Imagine if every in AZ was built with solar panels as a matter of fact and ahouselittle bit of thought since then. We could be an exporter of energy…

          When you finally get ready to purchase, look for Energy Star rated homes.

          Hope your Mustache is in modern times getting long.

          Reply
    • Sevy March 32014, , 9:27 more than ever pm

      Interestingly, Two words… attic fan. A lot of from another perspective these have a thermostat that you can set to turn on at a certain temp. In hot weather heat gets built up in there to only small vents with escape. Even if you have to pay someone to install it $400-500 you’ll make the cash return in no time with not needing the A/C as much or at all.

      Reply
    • Chad 7 5, 2015, July:16 am

      ’ve gotYouthermal mass a bit backwards. It operates both ways, heating in winter and cooling in summer. Interestingly, You just need to find sun way to charge it with heat (a in modern times ) during the winter. Alternatively, as mentioned elsewhere, if you have cheaper in modern times electric rates during the night, you can run your heater through the night in winter to charge up the thermal mass that will then release the heat slowly over the day. Remember: A lot of these things aren’t anti-heat elements, they’re anti-temperature alter elements.

      Reply
  • LT September 25, 2012 as a matter of fact , 11:20 am

    Indeed, I am interested to study more about the tubes of water in . of windowsfront In fact, I tried to Google it, but couldn’t really locate any information.

    Reply
    • Gerard October 30, 2012, 7:50 am

      LT, google “factor ten house chicago” for an example of a house that uses hundreds of 2-litre pop bottles filled with water to do this. And the house does a lot of other cool things, too.

      Reply
  • Fawn November 14, 2012, 1:14 pm

    We live in a smallish (3 bd/2 ba, 1000 sf) apartment with no laundry, where no one actively uses electricity between 8am and 3pm or after 10pm, and we never run the AC or the heaters. Interestingly, Yet our electric bill is still over $100 a month. In fact, Could it all be power drain? as it turns out The fridge? ceilingThefans? I am at a loss on how to lower the bill- and no we do not have cable platform at all.

    Reply
    • Mr. Money Mustache November 14, 2012, 3:11 pm

      Hey, that’s an interesting problem. Actually, What is your rate for electricity (or alternatively, the number of kWh you utilize per month)?. The dollars-per-month alone doesn’t tell us much, since electricity price can vary by 400% within the US alone.

      If your fridge is really outdated, that could use a fair amount of the bill. If you have an electric insulated heater, there’s another $20-$30 – more if it is old and poorly water (try adding an insulation blanket). Other than that, I can’t think of anything that would employ much power, unless you have loads of incandescent bulbs.

      In fact, Also check the bill for how much the fixed component is – sometimes there is a big monthly fee regardless of your power use.

      Reply
      • Fawn November 14, 2012, 4:43 pm

        From used bill: kWh our: 805
        Actually, Charges per07983kWh: $0.
        It’s worth noting that more than ever Misc other taxes and delivery charges: $10.97
        not fact, We do In have access to our hot water heater. Is in a tinyservicelocked, , closet under our oven. We do have electric cooking, and I do cook two meals per day from scratch (using the stove top, a more than ever mixer, rice cooker, oven or crockpot daily). We actually do have probablymixa 50/50 of outdated and recent lightbulbs and will switch the bad 50% out tomorrow. We also have a MacBook that is asleep all day but turned on and plugged in. Interestingly, We run two ceiling fans nearly all day, and on very hot days (90+) we runaway window fan from another perspective at night. This is all fresh to us, having moved into housing at a fresh in modern times duty stationcivilianafter living in military housing fora long time. Interestingly, Should I just unplug everything the fridgeexceptand stove/oven? Switching them out is not an , as they belongoptionto the apartment.

        Reply
        • Fawn November 14, 2012, 4:48 pm

          Argh! It’s worth noting that Edited to add that is $0.07983 for generation charges. There from another perspective is also $0.07478 for delivery charges. Each per kWh. It’s worth notingkWhthat So we are essentially paying $0.155 per .

          Reply
        • Mr. Money Mustache November 14, 2012, 506: pm

          Wow.. Interestingly, 805 kWh sounds a little bit fishy for the setup you described. You could always utilize a $20 “kill-a-watt” meter to measure the consumption of various things. A fridge is about 50 per month. The cooking wouldn t take all that much (probably about 100kWh’from what you describe). Hot waterbemight 200. And as it turns out those are the biggest things. (You don’t have any always-on exterior lights, right?). Actually, Maybe your meter is inaccurate or someone else is using some of your power. You could ask a neighbor as a way of comparing too.

          Reply
          • Fawn November 14, 2012, :405pm

            In fact, No external lighting at all. I have asked around and although we have the largest apartment In the building, we do not have the largest bill (the smallest bill, a one bedroom downstairs, runs about $65 a month and the largest bill goes to a two bedroom upstairs at $225). I am starting to wonder if really former wiringjustcould be the culprit and we will have to deal with the cost. Could old wiring eating “be juice”?

            Reply
            • alewyfe as it turns out November 28, 2012, 1:41 pm

              Hm. Could be some fishy wiring… hard to know without digging deeper, but not impossible. We discovered some crazy wiring hi-jinks at our work-studio building when the power was shut off while my partner had been paying the bill… turns out our unit was cross-wired with another, and we’d been paying their bill and they, well, hadn’t. Took months to sort it out, meanwhile with us running an extention cord down the hall to a common outlet when we were there to do work until our rotten landlord could verify/repair the problem. Whata nightmare! Hope your approach is simpler… but yes, check that or-area usage common other units aren’t being metered on your bill!

  • omes11 am 30, 2013, 2:15 from another perspective August

    If anyone else knows the answer that would be great as well. Great site Mr Cash Mustache! Sorry if this is a dumb question but just wondering. i found it a couple weeks ago and have already implemented several tips and cut out a bunch of monthly expenses that were completely unnecessary but totally “ok” to my former non-Mustachain self (and have also turned a handful of other people onto the site). I have a inquiry about this article: So adding the thermal mass to your house will help it warm up slower, however, on the other hand won’t it also take more energy (i.e currency) tothatheat it up in the winter (not sure how cold the winters get for Colorado but assume a city has cold, harsh winters such as Chicago)?

    Reply
    • Prairie Practicality January , 222014, 9:25 am

      The thought behind mass is to provide “cold sinks”. If you have thermal mass in the winter you get “hot sinks”. Basically it allows your house to store heat longer. Eventually all the heat is more than ever lost out your walls/roof/windows so internal objects don’t affect your overall heat requirements…unless you added more to the walls/roof that acts as layers of insulation (i.e. drywall, heavier floors etc.).

      outside air, sunlight) and store it (in re “sink”) for later then you’the in the currency. If there was a way to get heat (or cold) cheaper at some points (i.e.

      We expect -40 here in the winters, summers get to 100.

      Reply
  • Fintan Mac Interestingly, January 30, 2014, 9:29 am

    I more than ever live in Ireland where the Summer is rarely too hot and the winter average daytime temperature is about 6 celsius (43F). As you may know, I use OFCH and was advised to leave the heat on at 12C (54F) all night and when out of the house and to turn it up to about 20C (68F) when we’re home. I was told that the reason for this is that it takes little enough heat to keep it topped up to 12C and upped to 20C compared with the amount of heat required to boost from subzero to 20C. That said we would often have subzero nighttime temperatures. I also know that we had a couple of very bad winters recently (-12C/ +10F) where people woke up to frozen pipes becuse they’d let the house freeze overnight where we had no problems with that.

    It seems to make sense alright, but I’d like to know for sure and particularly if it’s really more economical. Our housetheis about 10 years outdated in modern times and holds heat reasonably well.

    from another perspective Thanks for advice you cananygive me on this.

    Reply
  • more than ever Elizabeth Johnson March:16, 2014, 11 12 pm

    Hey! Redding and Longmont are 2.83 miles apart- latitudinally speaking.

    Our often don’t cool below 80summersdegrees overnight. Indeed, Mustachians herefeelapply swamp coolers and they great. But I runrarelythe A/C. My winter bills are higher than my summer bills because I love the heat and wearing tank tops and shorts round the clock. I calculated expenses and opted for swamp no right away.

    It’s worth noting thatasUnfortunately, many Reddingites over condition their houses in modern times do businesses. I’ve lead many campaigns at previous jobs turndownthat A/C up ( ?). Actually, “The I winter coldest ever spent was Redding indoors in the summer.”

    Reply
  • Zoltan Actually, August 13, 2014, 6:22 am

    Here in Europe everybody talks about insulation and passive houses (zero-energy) but no-one mentions the environmental cost of all the plastics and other industrial products with high embedded energy that build up a modern, highly insulated house. As you may know, Thermal mass is another topic that is neglected.

    To the whole truth I have to say that where I live mostmonolithicof the houses, old and recent are made of bricks, concrete foundation and floor, concrete ceiling and tile roofing. It’s worth noting So from a thermal mass perspective we arethatOK compared to most of US houses. However, in the last decade or as a matter of fact two, the houses got lighter and lighter due to modern light-weight construction materials and significantly thinner (still start-bearing) walls (you need the space for thick insulation).

    The well insulated but light houses basically act as heat traps. As a result, more and more modern houses require air conditioning during te summer heat wave, which was almost unknown before.

    As a enthusiast of traditional and environmentally conscious architecture, when I had the from another perspective opportunity to develop my own house, I knew that I will try and create a house that has as little embedded energy as possible by using natural materials as wood, earth and lime, minimizing the usage of concrete, cement, plastics and other industrial products, paints with high VOC etc. The other design of were high thermal mass, good solar orientation, generous roof overhangs, large windows southward, usage principles traditional building techniques. I also wanted to make it as low-tech as possible but I sort of gave up on that and still used pellet central heating and solarpanels for the boiler.

    The outcome speaks foritself . The house is very heavy, I’ve got two feet thick rammed), earth walls which weigh 230 tonnes (1600 square feet house the foundation is concrete but we did not employ cement above it only lime mortar, wooden ceiling, natural tiles on roof, one feet recycled blown-in paper insulation above the wooden ceiling. The house is very comfortable, very cool during the summer and nice warm during winter. There are only natural materials used inside like lime wash, naturally oiled wooden floors etc so the indoor air quality is excellent and the humidity is extremely even during the whole year, always around the ideal 50-60%.

    To cut it short, the mass is extremely essential factor, thanks for raising thermal attention to it.

    Reply
    • Mr. Money Mustache August 14, 2014, 10:20 am

      Interestingly, 230 tonnes! I am jealous of your house – nice role.

      Reply
    • CuriousK March 28, 2017, 9:58 am

      Hi Zoltan,

      Yourveryreply is a interesting read to me. I am not in the architecture or construction industry, but I’d love to read more about this. Could you suggest several books or ?websites Thanks ahead!

      Reply
  • churchie Actually, 6 March, 2016, 2:44 pm

    Coincidentally, I’ve view about a couple folks who have these in Colorado. The as a matter of fact thermal mass of a large masonry heater itself actsinlike an effective heat sink even when not employ. MMM, check out ‘trombe wall’, since you are very handy maybe you can construct one of these in the ahead.http://www.tempcast.com

    Reply
  • MKE January 26, 2017, 11:54 am

    Trees?
    I checked through the comments, and no one mentioned trees. Could I look through the fifty-thousand MMM posts andanuncover article about trees?
    Trees keep sun offkeepingyour house in the summer, it cool. In the winter, the leaves have fallen off and the sun heats it. Neat!
    The first thing most Americans do when they.acquire a house is clear-cut the property and take away all the trees Big mistake with both obvious upfront costs and later hidden costs.
    as a matter of fact I know this publish is about thermal mass, but talking about heating and cooling a house cheaply and not mentioning trees is like talking about getting around cheaply and not mentioning bicycles.

    Reply
    • Drew September 6, 2017, 7:37 am

      When my mother moved, the more than ever novel owners cut them down. I grew up in an outdated house under 14 huge maple trees, never had A/C. I don’t think without would have survived summer we them.

      Reply
  • Sky February 28, 2019, 2:40 pm

    It’s in modern times worth noting that I’m surprised you don’t mention improving insulation anywhere possible. As you may know, I understand the importance of thermal mass, amount if you want to minimize the but of heat-leak/heat exchange, this is hugely vital. The house will block heat in longer in the winter and block heat out longer summer the in.

    Reply
  • JonesArt February 15, 2021, 1:28 am

    I have a recent assemble in which a large start plan room (9m x 7m) is a 7m ( x 20cm) solid concrete beam, I was going to30cmclad it with insulation but should I actually leave it as is to absorb heat as a solid heat store in the winter when we will have a wood burner running?

    Reply
    • Mr. Money Mustache February 15, 2021, 3:30 pm

      sounds, that Yeah ideal. As long as the beam is insulated on the OUTSIDE, so that you aren’t bridging heat through into your room (concrete is fairly conductive), it is much better to leave the concrete exposed on the inside for exactly the reason you mention.

      Reply

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